Have you ever seen those photos where the water or clouds have motion blur, or are completely smoothed out? There is a cheap and easy way of achieving it with a filter but what if you can’t afford one? Let’s talk about options…
When I first started I was using a level entry camera and kit lens; the Nikon D5300 and the 18-55mm kit lens that comes with it as a part of a package…
This is a great starter camera and still is, you just need to know the limitations of your camera, which is where this post comes in.
A preface: These examples were taken quite literally at the time I first started using a DSLR camera. These are not award-winning but I don’t think they are too bad for a novice to DSLR cameras, who was experimenting with different techniques.
I took both of the photos, on that D5300, the kit-lens and with no filters…
With photography, it is all about compromise and how far you are willing to push your settings to get the shot you want. So how did I get that water motion blur with no filter?
There were three parts that helped me. The first was figuring out what shutter speed created the most pleasing look in the waves. This took a lot of trial and error, on a lot of different mornings to figure a shutter-speed that worked well for the effect I wanted.
Both the photos above were taken with a 1.3 second shutter speed. I found, for my own taste, a 1 to 2.5 second shutter speed worked well for me, with my favourite being 1.3 seconds. I just like the way the waves look at that shutter speed.
So how do I maintain that shutter speed? That’s where the compromises kick in if you don’t have an ND filter. So here’s what I did…
I see a lot of people rock up to a sunrise just minutes before the sun comes up. The problem with that is that the sky is already bright. Here’s the strange thing though… the colour in the sky is often there a long time BEFORE the sun peaks over the horizon.
My Nikon D5300 (and most basic cameras) really perform well around an hour to 30 minutes before sunrise. Basic cameras can struggle with dynamic range but in the pre-dawn light, everything is lovely and soft. There is much less dynamic range. When you couple that with the sky exploding in the reds and oranges of the pre-dawn light, I often wondered why people don’t arrive earlier.
So tip 1 for basic cameras: Get there at least an hour before sunrise. You can have shutter speeds of 30 seconds or more (bulb mode) and the sky is so often beautiful at that time. You will find that your level entry camera will work much better in the pre-dawn dynamic range.
An hour before sunrise you could have 30-second exposures no problem. But as the sun gets closer to rising, the brightness increases and that time starts dropping quite quickly. I make sure my ISO is at the absolute minimum. Some cameras can go lower with the ISO than advertised. If yours can, try it and see if it is worth doing.
Your main control will be the F-stop number, called the aperture. The Tower above was shot at F22, the big wave photo was F16 and the pier was F22. Should you always shoot at those F-stop number? No, it’s a compromise that needs talking about.
Every lens has a sweet-spot where at a certain F-stop range it is at its optimum sharpness. This is usually around F5 to F8. I think on my kit-lens it was F8 but on the lenses I use now, it’s around F5.6 to F6.3. DXO Mark is a brilliant website to check out for lens specs and sharpness tests.
I shot those photos above with the F-number so high because I needed the extra time those large F-numbers gave me, so I could get the most out of the dawn colours and light before it went too far.
Sometimes the light earlier was nicest (I could then shoot the 1.3 seconds at say, F4 or F6.3). As the sky got brighter I would keep raising the aperture until I could raise it no further. In some cases I got the shot at F6.3, other times, like above, the best shot ended up being when I clicked the shutter at F22.
I would lock in 1.3 seconds for the shutter speed and gradually increase the F-Stop number as the dawn sky grew brighter, always checking my cameras in-built exposure meter to make sure I wasn’t blowing out the highlights…
The inbuilt exposure meter would let me know if I was going overexposed. As the meter went further right (meaning I was starting to blow out the highlights, the brightest part of the image) I would raise my F-number to keep the exposure balanced and bring that meter back down towards ‘0’. This allowed me to keep the 1.3 second exposure time for as long as possible.
By doing this though, I’m sacrificing sharpness and introducing a problem called lens diffraction.
As you increase the F-stop number, you lower the sharpness and reduce image quality because the camera is now struggling to get enough light in to give you a super sharp image.
I would never normally shoot landscapes past F11, but I’m usually around F8 because it is closer to the lenses optimal sharpness. I only ever use those high F-stop numbers when it is the only way to get the shot I want.
At some point, and before the sun rises, you can go no higher and it simply isn’t possible to keep that 1.3 second exposure without an ND filter. What this shows though, it you can have a lot of fun before dawn and you can still have plenty of time to get the shot you want.
There is one other thing you could also try. The results are not quite as good but it is an option. You could take multiple images and blend them together in a programme like Photoshop. If you want to learn about this technique, check out this great tutorial on long exposure focus stacking.
Don’t forget, car trails at night can also be a lot of fun and basic cameras are great at capturing these because again, the dynamic range isn’t as challenging.
I usually shoot these around F13, ISO 100 and a 10-30 second exposure time.